Paper Toiling

[Stand work]

Starting with a basic bodice block shape, I started to add on shape, sleeves and collars to work out how the drawings and designs I've been doing could translate into a garment. Before starting the paper toiling process, I visited the library to photocopy a few pattern cutting books, my knowledge of pattern cutting is basically zero and apart from the first project, I have never created a pattern before. Going through the resources at the library was actually extremely helpful, I found a collection of books called 'Pattern Magic' which are Japanese, and they give step by step breakdowns of conceptual silhouettes and detailing. As most of my designs have been conceptual I thought it would be impossible to construct many of them through an actual pattern, but after reading the whole series I have come across a few various processes and techniques to achieve what I hope it to look like. 

As seen in the first set of stand work above, I used a pretty basic bodice and sleeve block. Instead of measuring, I did this through trial and error, cutting away too large pieces of paper and pinning on extra pieces where needed. Looking back on this process, I should have perhaps asked for help with this as it was quite time consuming but I also felt proud that I did it alone. Using my earlier stand work construction on top, I recreated the pregnancy bump. I was really unhappy with this stand work as I think not only is quite dull, but also it has no development from my earlier work. So scrapping this I started again.

[Stand work]

I wasn't sure if I wanted it to be cropped or not so I made up both on either side of the mannequin so I  could measure them against each other. Although I only made one sleeve for the toile I actually like it a-symmetrical and will leave it like that. Over this week I will develop and refine this until I am happy, and after transfer it to calico for a fitting.  

As well as this I created my final knit piece, which was just a much longer larger version of my earlier hand dyed sample. From experimenting with this on the stand I put the images into my book and collaged them into designs, collaborating my stand work designs with my knit ideas.